Homepage

  • The Crochet Version of the popular Knit Checkerboard Slippers!

    You can find a ad free version of this pattern available for sale and download HERE!

    This pattern has been a long time coming. I use to sell it on Ravelry but I have decided that I am going to start releasing my patterns for free here. This pattern is near and dear to my heart and is the crochet version of the classic knit checkerboard slippers.

    My grandmother taught me how to knit the slippers when I was younger. I have never come across a crochet version so I made one myself! I have had a ton of people ask for the pattern to be released so I decided to write it up! I have seen in groups on facebook and reddit looking for a pattern similar to the knit version of these slippers and the comments from crocheters stating that they cannot find a crochet pattern. I really hope you enjoy making these as much as I do.

    I would say that the pattern is for experienced crocheters. They are made using just a half double crochet but they involve color changes and pulling your yarn over stitches to make the desired bump affect. If you have any questions please feel free to fill out the contact form here or leave a comment below. I see comments first usually!

    Supplies: 

    2 colors worsted weight yarn.  
    G or 4.0mm Crochet Hook 
    Yarn Needle  
    Scissors

    NOTES:  

    – Color changes will happen every 4 stitches. You will finish out your last Hdc with your new color. DO NOT CUT YOUR YARN! 
    -You will NOT crochet over the tail of each color as you go. You will drop the working color and pick up the new color to finish out your last Hdc stitch. 
    -When you pick up your new color you will pull it across the 4 stitches you just made. This creates a float which will keep the “bumps” of the pattern intact. Make sure to pull the float tight to create the bump effect of the slipper. ← VERY IMPORTANT! See photos below for reference.
    – You will also anchor each new color UNDER the old color. There are pictures provided that helps show this. See below. 
    – For the very last hdc of your row you will anchor the old color before finishing the stitch. Your last squares will roll over onto itself.

    Sizes: 

    Toddler  

    Chain 33. 6 full blocks. 1 decrease block.
    6 ¾ inches from heel to toe.

    Child 

    Chain 41. 7 full blocks. 1 decrease block.
    7 ½ inches from heel to toe.

    Ladies 

    Chain 49. 8 full blocks. 1 decrease block.
    8 ¾ inches from heel to toe

    Men’s 

    Chain 57. 9 full blocks. 1 decrease block.
    10 inches from heel to toe.

    You can always add blocks if the slippers happen to not be long enough!

    To Start:  

    Chain the amount with the size you wish to make.  

    Row1: Hdc in the 2nd chain from hook and in the next 2 stitches. Start a hdc with Color 1 (c1) and finish by attaching Color 2 (c2). Drop c1 and work 3 full hdc with c2. Start 4th hdc with c2. Pick up c1, floating the yarn along the wrong side/back side of your work. Pull c2 tight to create a bubble with the fabric and finish 4th hdc. You will pull your floating yarn tight after every color change throughout the pattern. 

    Row 2: Chain 1 and turn. Following the same pattern as above repeat row 1 with corresponding colors. Make sure you are anchoring your old color down. 

    Row 3: Chain 1 and turn. Repeat row 2.  

    Row 4: You will be switching the order of your colors on this row. So where you used c1 you will now use c2. Example:

    1111222211112222
    1111222211112222
    1111222211112222
    2222111122221111
    2222111122221111
    2222111122221111

    Each block is 4 half double crochets for 3 rows.

    Row 5- End: You will repeat the pattern above switching colors after 3 rows until you reach the amount of blocks indicated above for the size you are making. 

    Again: Make sure you are pulling your floating yarn tight. If you leave it loose and your slipper doesn’t have the bow affect the sizing will be off. If you have any questions regarding how this is done please feel free to get a hold of me! You can email me at contact@mountainpinecrochet for a quick response. 

    Decrease Block: 

    Rd 1: Hdc in the first 2 stitches of each block. Hdc2tog and finish with your new color for your color change just as you did above. Repeat across ending with a Hdc2tog. Chain 1 and Turn. 

    Rd 2: Hdc in the first stitch of each block. Hdc2tog and finish with your new color for your color  change. Chain 1 and Turn. 

    Rd 3: Hdc2tog ending each stitch with your color change. Chain 1 and Turn.

    Changing Colors and Anchoring Your New Color:

    Your new color will ALWAYS go under your new color.
    Finish your last HDC with the new color by pulling your new color though all 3 loops on your hook!

    NOTE: To make the bumps happen on the outside of the slipper you will pull the new color tight.
    You will be carrying your new color over your 4 stitches. The inside of your slipper will look like this.
    The lines that you see are the floats which hold your bump in place. This is where you pulled your
    yarn over the set of HDC you made.

    Finishing off:  

    Cut a long tail with either color and cut the other end long enough to weave in. Knot off both. With your long tail you will weave the yarn though each of your last stitches and pull closed. This will form the toe of your slipper. When you pull closed you will be at the top of the slipper. Hold the 2 sides of the slipper together and sew up the top about 1/3rd of the way. Knot off and weave in your end.  

    Now to the back of the slipper. Take the long tail from the beginning and hold the ends of your slipper together and sew up the sides. This will form the heal. Knot off and weave in all of your ends.

    All finished!  

    I love seeing all of your creations so please share on the following social media! 

    All photos and pattern itself are copyright protected and property of Mountain Pine Crochet.

  • 5 Free Crochet Christmas Stocking Patterns!

    Looking for a Christmas Stocking pattern this year?! Here are 10 Free Crochet patterns from some very talented designers! See Notes at the bottom of the page!

    1.)

    First on our list is The Fabulously Festive Christmas Stocking by Julie King! Her website is filled with patterns of all kinds! Take a look around to see what else she has available!

    Second on our list is The Waistcoat Stocking by Carmen Jacob. It is available though Ravelry. I cannot get over how adorable the color work on these are!

    Number 3 on the list! Emi Harrington designed this stocking and it is perfect for the simple Christmas look. It is a full YouTube video on how to make it!

    4th on the list is the Fair Isle Snowflake Christmas Stocking by Petals to Picots. I did have to do some digging to find the free version of this pattern BUT it is linked to the picture above! There is a separate link to the green one but it is on her website too! While searching for the free pattern, I looked at the other free Christmas patterns she has available and I have to say, they are worth checking out!

    Okay. I love the fact that these look like regular socks! I think that is so cute! The Classic Christmas Stocking by Rich Textures Crochet is available for free on their website!

    NOTE! If you would like to have your pattern featured on our website please email me at mountainpinecrochet@gmail.com The next round up I am doing is for Christmas ornaments!

    Check out these other patterns from Mountain Pine Crochet.
    Tunisian Crochet Christmas Tree Pillow Pattern
    Watermelon Granny Square Pattern
    Crochet Hadley Headband Pattern
    Knit Checkerboard Slipper Pattern

  • Free Crochet Pattern: Tunisian Crochet Christmas Tree Pillow

    You can purchase an ad free version of this pattern HERE!

    I am so very excited to announce the release of the first pattern in my Christmas Pillow Collection!
    This decretive pillow is small and so easy to work up! It is made in 2 panels and crocheted together to form the border.

    There will be 5 pillows in this collection this year and I have been working hard to make sure the graphs are easy to read and instructions are easy to follow! I hope you enjoy!

    Supplies:
    5.5mm Tunisian Crochet Hook
    5.5mm Regular Crochet Hook
    Worsted weight yarn in
    Green
    Brown
    Off White
    – You can use any colors or brand of yarn!
    Scissors
    Darning Needle

    Notes:
    The pillow is made using Tunisian Simple Stitch.
    It is made in 2 Panels and Crocheted together.
    Polyfill was used as stuffing!

    To Start:
    Chain 51 using Tunisian Crochet hook.
    Follow Pattern from graph below or continue on for a row by row guide.

    Row 1: (Linen) x 51
    Row 2: (Linen) x 51
    Row 3: (Linen) x 51
    Row 4: (Linen) x 51
    Row 5: (Linen) x 51
    Row 6: (Linen) x 5, (Light Taupe) x 1, (Linen) x 19, (Light Taupe) x 1, (Linen) x 19, (Light Taupe) x 1, (Linen) x 5
    Row 7: (Linen) x 5, (Light Taupe) x 1, (Linen) x 19, (Light Taupe) x 1, (Linen) x 19, (Light Taupe) x 1, (Linen) x 5
    Row 8: (Linen) x 2, (Dark Olive) x 7, (Linen) x 13, (Dark Olive) x 7, (Linen) x 13, (Dark Olive) x 7, (Linen) x 2
    Row 9: (Linen) x 3, (Dark Olive) x 5, (Linen) x 15, (Dark Olive) x 5, (Linen) x 15, (Dark Olive) x 5, (Linen) x 3
    Row 10: (Linen) x 2, (Dark Olive) x 7, (Linen) x 13, (Dark Olive) x 7, (Linen) x 13, (Dark Olive) x 7, (Linen) x 2
    Row 11: (Linen) x 3, (Dark Olive) x 5, (Linen) x 15, (Dark Olive) x 5, (Linen) x 15, (Dark Olive) x 5, (Linen) x 3
    Row 12: (Linen) x 4, (Dark Olive) x 3, (Linen) x 17, (Dark Olive) x 3, (Linen) x 17, (Dark Olive) x 3, (Linen) x 4
    Row 13: (Linen) x 5, (Dark Olive) x 1, (Linen) x 19, (Dark Olive) x 1, (Linen) x 19, (Dark Olive) x 1, (Linen) x 5
    Row 14: (Linen) x 51
    Row 15: (Linen) x 51
    Row 16: (Linen) x 51
    Row 17: (Linen) x 14, (Light Taupe) x 1, (Linen) x 21, (Light Taupe) x 1, (Linen) x 14
    Row 18: (Linen) x 14, (Light Taupe) x 1, (Linen) x 21, (Light Taupe) x 1, (Linen) x 14
    Row 19: (Linen) x 11, (Dark Olive) x 7, (Linen) x 15, (Dark Olive) x 7, (Linen) x 11
    Row 20: (Linen) x 12, (Dark Olive) x 5, (Linen) x 17, (Dark Olive) x 5, (Linen) x 12
    Row 21: (Linen) x 11, (Dark Olive) x 7, (Linen) x 15, (Dark Olive) x 7, (Linen) x 11
    Row 22: (Linen) x 12, (Dark Olive) x 5, (Linen) x 17, (Dark Olive) x 5, (Linen) x 12
    Row 23: (Linen) x 13, (Dark Olive) x 3, (Linen) x 19, (Dark Olive) x 3, (Linen) x 13
    Row 24: (Linen) x 14, (Dark Olive) x 1, (Linen) x 21, (Dark Olive) x 1, (Linen) x 14
    Row 25: (Linen) x 51
    Row 26: (Linen) x 51
    Row 27: (Linen) x 51
    Row 28: (Linen) x 5, (Light Taupe) x 1, (Linen) x 19, (Light Taupe) x 1, (Linen) x 19, (Light Taupe) x 1, (Linen) x 5
    Row 29: (Linen) x 5, (Light Taupe) x 1, (Linen) x 19, (Light Taupe) x 1, (Linen) x 19, (Light Taupe) x 1, (Linen) x 5
    Row 30: (Linen) x 2, (Dark Olive) x 7, (Linen) x 13, (Dark Olive) x 7, (Linen) x 13, (Dark Olive) x 7, (Linen) x 2
    Row 31: (Linen) x 3, (Dark Olive) x 5, (Linen) x 15, (Dark Olive) x 5, (Linen) x 15, (Dark Olive) x 5, (Linen) x 3
    Row 32: (Linen) x 2, (Dark Olive) x 7, (Linen) x 13, (Dark Olive) x 7, (Linen) x 13, (Dark Olive) x 7, (Linen) x 2
    Row 33: (Linen) x 3, (Dark Olive) x 5, (Linen) x 15, (Dark Olive) x 5, (Linen) x 15, (Dark Olive) x 5, (Linen) x 3
    Row 34: (Linen) x 4, (Dark Olive) x 3, (Linen) x 17, (Dark Olive) x 3, (Linen) x 17, (Dark Olive) x 3, (Linen) x 4
    Row 35: (Linen) x 5, (Dark Olive) x 1, (Linen) x 19, (Dark Olive) x 1, (Linen) x 19, (Dark Olive) x 1, (Linen) x 5
    Row 36: (Linen) x 51
    Row 37: (Linen) x 51
    Row 38: (Linen) x 51
    Row 39: (Linen) x 51
    Row 40: (Linen) x 51
    Row 41: (Linen) x 51
    Row 42: (Linen) x 51

    Total: (Linen) x 1902, (Dark Olive) x 224, (Light Taupe) x 16

    Once your front panel is done, using your base color, chain 51. Tunisian simple stitch for 42 rows.

    Put your front and back panel wrong sides together. Using a 5.5mm hook, single crochet the 2 pieces together around the edges. You will place 3 single crochets in each corner. When you get 3 of the 4 sides done, stuff your pillow with polyfill. I had mine crocheted about half way though the last side when I stuffed mine.

    Pillow measures roughly 12 inches by 12 inches.

    I hope you enjoy and as always, if you have any questions please feel free to comment or send us a message!

    Happy Yarning!

    Check out these other patterns from Mountain Pine Crochet.
    Tunisian Crochet Christmas Tree Pillow Pattern
    Watermelon Granny Square Pattern
    Crochet Hadley Headband Pattern
    Knit Checkerboard Slipper Pattern

  • Watermelon Granny Square Tutorial: FREE

    Supplies:
    Crochet Hook (I used a size G)
    Yarn (I used Worsted Weight)
    Darning Needle
    Scissors

    Notes:
    Make sure you are using yarn with a corresponding or suggested hook. It doesn’t matter what size yarn you use!

    Stitches Used:
    Sl St: Slip Stitch
    MC: Magic Circle
    Sc: Single Crochet
    HDC: Half Double Crochet
    DC: Double Crochet
    BL: Back Loop
    Sk: Skip
    Ch: Chain

    Lets get started!

    With Red:
    1.) Double Crochet 12 in Magic Circle. (12)
    2.) 2 DC in each stitch around. (24)
    Fasten off and attach Green
    3.) Single Crochet 2, Increase in next stitch. Repeat around ( 32)
    Fasten off and Join with your choice of outside color

    Starting Granny Square Stitch
    4.) Sc in the same stitch as joining. *Ch 1, sk 2, (BL HDC 3), Ch 2, (BL HDC 3) Ch 1, sk 2, BL SC in next 2*. Repeat 3 times. Join with a sl st to top of single crochet. Ch 1 and turn.
    5.) 3 Dc in each chain 1 space from previous round. DC 3, Ch 2, DC 3 in each Ch 2 (corner) space from previous round.

    Fasten off and weave in your ends!

    For the seeds, Take a long piece of black yarn and weave it in and out of the first row of DC and the stitch above it in the next round. I did this 6 times!

  • Learn With Me: Yarn Types and Tools used in Crochet.

    Welcome! I am so excited to have you here! If you are like me, you are here to do research before jumping into a new hobby. Crochet is the art of using different loops and knots to create a fabric. I am here to talk to you about the different types of yarn and the tools you will need to get started, but first lets talk about yarn.

    The weight of yarn is not determined by how heavy the yarn is but by how thick or thin the yarn is. Here is a look at what the icons look like on a skein of yarn and what different types of yarns can be used for. If you click the icon next to the description below you will be taken to an example of each!

    0 Weight, or Lace weight yarn is the thinnest yarn on the market. This type of yarn is usually used with a larger hook or needle and is used to make a lace effect for shawls or wraps! It makes for a very delicate and sophisticated look.

    Super Fine weight yarn is also known as fingering weight yarn. It is used most commonly in knitting socks, baby garments and adult garments.

    Weight 2 yarn is also known as sport weight or baby weight yarn. This type of yarn has a great drape when worked up and can be used to make socks also with a slightly thicker fabric than fingering weight yarn.

    This yarn is also known as DK weight yarn. It works up much faster than the previously mention yarn and is very popular for sweaters and shawls.

    Worsted Weight yarn is the most commonly used yarn in knit and crochet. It works up quickly and is so versitile that you can find patterns from garments, swimsuits (cotton), afghans (blankets) amigurumi and many more.

    This yarn is perfect for blankets and chunky sweaters. Also known as chunky yarn.

    Lately this kind of yarn has been used to make large plushies. It is very thick and it can also be used to make large blankets.

    Now onto your tools!

    Lets talk about hooks first. There are a ton of different materials that hooks can be made out of. Some examples are aluminum, wood, clay, plastic and acrylic. There are also 2 different kinds of hooks, inline and tapered.

    Tapered Hooks are my favorite. I have found that Inline hooks split my yarn. Boye Hooks are Tapered. Click the picture to be taken to some examples of Tapered Hooks.
    Inline Hooks were my Grandma’s go-to. She held her yarn differently than I do and these worked well for her. Susan Bates makes Inline Hooks. Click the picture to be taken to some examples of inline hooks.

    There are also hooks called Tunisian Crochet hooks or afghan hook, which is used for a totally different kind of crochet which I will address in a separate post. Here is a picture of what those look like.

    Tunisian hooks may also have a long cord attached. Click the picture for the hooks that I own.

    After your hook there are a few other small things that you may need.

    Scissors. You can use your kitchen scissors but I have found that having a small pair to take with me in my crochet bag is the best way to go. Click the picture and you will be taken to my favorite pair that I always carry in my bag!

    Darning Needles or Yarn Needles will be needed to sew in your ends! I never crochet over my ends like some people might suggest you do. They always come loose and make my project look messy. Darning Needles are your friends!

    The good thing about a stitch marker is that you can really use a variety of things. My most commonly used stitch marker is a bobby pin. They aren’t expensive and if you loose it (like I do all the time), you usually have 100 more laying around your house! Another good option is a simple paperclip, but if you want to get some actual stitch markers, these are my go to! Just make sure you are using ones that have a way to be removed. If they are a solid circle ring those are used for knitting.