Crochet Pattern
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The Crochet Version of the popular Knit Checkerboard Slippers!
You can find a ad free version of this pattern available for sale and download HERE!
This pattern has been a long time coming. I use to sell it on Ravelry but I have decided that I am going to start releasing my patterns for free here. This pattern is near and dear to my heart and is the crochet version of the classic knit checkerboard slippers.
My grandmother taught me how to knit the slippers when I was younger. I have never come across a crochet version so I made one myself! I have had a ton of people ask for the pattern to be released so I decided to write it up! I have seen in groups on facebook and reddit looking for a pattern similar to the knit version of these slippers and the comments from crocheters stating that they cannot find a crochet pattern. I really hope you enjoy making these as much as I do.
I would say that the pattern is for experienced crocheters. They are made using just a half double crochet but they involve color changes and pulling your yarn over stitches to make the desired bump affect. If you have any questions please feel free to fill out the contact form here or leave a comment below. I see comments first usually!
Supplies:
2 colors worsted weight yarn.
G or 4.0mm Crochet Hook
Yarn Needle
ScissorsNOTES:
– Color changes will happen every 4 stitches. You will finish out your last Hdc with your new color. DO NOT CUT YOUR YARN!
-You will NOT crochet over the tail of each color as you go. You will drop the working color and pick up the new color to finish out your last Hdc stitch.
-When you pick up your new color you will pull it across the 4 stitches you just made. This creates a float which will keep the “bumps” of the pattern intact. Make sure to pull the float tight to create the bump effect of the slipper. ← VERY IMPORTANT! See photos below for reference.
– You will also anchor each new color UNDER the old color. There are pictures provided that helps show this. See below.
– For the very last hdc of your row you will anchor the old color before finishing the stitch. Your last squares will roll over onto itself.Sizes:
Toddler
Chain 33. 6 full blocks. 1 decrease block.
6 ¾ inches from heel to toe.Child
Chain 41. 7 full blocks. 1 decrease block.
7 ½ inches from heel to toe.Ladies
Chain 49. 8 full blocks. 1 decrease block.
8 ¾ inches from heel to toeMen’s
Chain 57. 9 full blocks. 1 decrease block.
10 inches from heel to toe.You can always add blocks if the slippers happen to not be long enough!
To Start:
Chain the amount with the size you wish to make.
Row1: Hdc in the 2nd chain from hook and in the next 2 stitches. Start a hdc with Color 1 (c1) and finish by attaching Color 2 (c2). Drop c1 and work 3 full hdc with c2. Start 4th hdc with c2. Pick up c1, floating the yarn along the wrong side/back side of your work. Pull c2 tight to create a bubble with the fabric and finish 4th hdc. You will pull your floating yarn tight after every color change throughout the pattern.
Row 2: Chain 1 and turn. Following the same pattern as above repeat row 1 with corresponding colors. Make sure you are anchoring your old color down.
Row 3: Chain 1 and turn. Repeat row 2.
Row 4: You will be switching the order of your colors on this row. So where you used c1 you will now use c2. Example:
1111222211112222
1111222211112222
1111222211112222
2222111122221111
2222111122221111
2222111122221111
Each block is 4 half double crochets for 3 rows.Row 5- End: You will repeat the pattern above switching colors after 3 rows until you reach the amount of blocks indicated above for the size you are making.
Again: Make sure you are pulling your floating yarn tight. If you leave it loose and your slipper doesn’t have the bow affect the sizing will be off. If you have any questions regarding how this is done please feel free to get a hold of me! You can email me at contact@mountainpinecrochet for a quick response.
Decrease Block:
Rd 1: Hdc in the first 2 stitches of each block. Hdc2tog and finish with your new color for your color change just as you did above. Repeat across ending with a Hdc2tog. Chain 1 and Turn.
Rd 2: Hdc in the first stitch of each block. Hdc2tog and finish with your new color for your color change. Chain 1 and Turn.
Rd 3: Hdc2tog ending each stitch with your color change. Chain 1 and Turn.
Changing Colors and Anchoring Your New Color:
Your new color will ALWAYS go under your new color. 
Finish your last HDC with the new color by pulling your new color though all 3 loops on your hook! NOTE: To make the bumps happen on the outside of the slipper you will pull the new color tight.
You will be carrying your new color over your 4 stitches. The inside of your slipper will look like this.
The lines that you see are the floats which hold your bump in place. This is where you pulled your
yarn over the set of HDC you made.
Finishing off:
Cut a long tail with either color and cut the other end long enough to weave in. Knot off both. With your long tail you will weave the yarn though each of your last stitches and pull closed. This will form the toe of your slipper. When you pull closed you will be at the top of the slipper. Hold the 2 sides of the slipper together and sew up the top about 1/3rd of the way. Knot off and weave in your end.
Now to the back of the slipper. Take the long tail from the beginning and hold the ends of your slipper together and sew up the sides. This will form the heal. Knot off and weave in all of your ends.
All finished!
I love seeing all of your creations so please share on the following social media!
- Pinterest: @mountainpinecrochet
- TikTok: @mountainpinecrochet
- Website: www.mountainpinecrochet.com
All photos and pattern itself are copyright protected and property of Mountain Pine Crochet.
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5 Free Crochet Christmas Stocking Patterns!
Looking for a Christmas Stocking pattern this year?! Here are 10 Free Crochet patterns from some very talented designers! See Notes at the bottom of the page!
1.)
First on our list is The Fabulously Festive Christmas Stocking by Julie King! Her website is filled with patterns of all kinds! Take a look around to see what else she has available!
Second on our list is The Waistcoat Stocking by Carmen Jacob. It is available though Ravelry. I cannot get over how adorable the color work on these are!
Number 3 on the list! Emi Harrington designed this stocking and it is perfect for the simple Christmas look. It is a full YouTube video on how to make it!
4th on the list is the Fair Isle Snowflake Christmas Stocking by Petals to Picots. I did have to do some digging to find the free version of this pattern BUT it is linked to the picture above! There is a separate link to the green one but it is on her website too! While searching for the free pattern, I looked at the other free Christmas patterns she has available and I have to say, they are worth checking out!
Okay. I love the fact that these look like regular socks! I think that is so cute! The Classic Christmas Stocking by Rich Textures Crochet is available for free on their website!
NOTE! If you would like to have your pattern featured on our website please email me at mountainpinecrochet@gmail.com The next round up I am doing is for Christmas ornaments!
Check out these other patterns from Mountain Pine Crochet.
Tunisian Crochet Christmas Tree Pillow Pattern
Watermelon Granny Square Pattern
Crochet Hadley Headband Pattern
Knit Checkerboard Slipper Pattern -
Free Crochet Pattern: Tunisian Crochet Christmas Tree Pillow
You can purchase an ad free version of this pattern HERE!
I am so very excited to announce the release of the first pattern in my Christmas Pillow Collection!
This decretive pillow is small and so easy to work up! It is made in 2 panels and crocheted together to form the border.There will be 5 pillows in this collection this year and I have been working hard to make sure the graphs are easy to read and instructions are easy to follow! I hope you enjoy!
Supplies:
5.5mm Tunisian Crochet Hook
5.5mm Regular Crochet Hook
Worsted weight yarn in
Green
Brown
Off White
– You can use any colors or brand of yarn!
Scissors
Darning NeedleNotes:
The pillow is made using Tunisian Simple Stitch.
It is made in 2 Panels and Crocheted together.
Polyfill was used as stuffing!To Start:
Chain 51 using Tunisian Crochet hook.
Follow Pattern from graph below or continue on for a row by row guide.Row 1: (Linen) x 51
Row 2: (Linen) x 51
Row 3: (Linen) x 51
Row 4: (Linen) x 51
Row 5: (Linen) x 51
Row 6: (Linen) x 5, (Light Taupe) x 1, (Linen) x 19, (Light Taupe) x 1, (Linen) x 19, (Light Taupe) x 1, (Linen) x 5
Row 7: (Linen) x 5, (Light Taupe) x 1, (Linen) x 19, (Light Taupe) x 1, (Linen) x 19, (Light Taupe) x 1, (Linen) x 5
Row 8: (Linen) x 2, (Dark Olive) x 7, (Linen) x 13, (Dark Olive) x 7, (Linen) x 13, (Dark Olive) x 7, (Linen) x 2
Row 9: (Linen) x 3, (Dark Olive) x 5, (Linen) x 15, (Dark Olive) x 5, (Linen) x 15, (Dark Olive) x 5, (Linen) x 3
Row 10: (Linen) x 2, (Dark Olive) x 7, (Linen) x 13, (Dark Olive) x 7, (Linen) x 13, (Dark Olive) x 7, (Linen) x 2
Row 11: (Linen) x 3, (Dark Olive) x 5, (Linen) x 15, (Dark Olive) x 5, (Linen) x 15, (Dark Olive) x 5, (Linen) x 3
Row 12: (Linen) x 4, (Dark Olive) x 3, (Linen) x 17, (Dark Olive) x 3, (Linen) x 17, (Dark Olive) x 3, (Linen) x 4
Row 13: (Linen) x 5, (Dark Olive) x 1, (Linen) x 19, (Dark Olive) x 1, (Linen) x 19, (Dark Olive) x 1, (Linen) x 5
Row 14: (Linen) x 51
Row 15: (Linen) x 51
Row 16: (Linen) x 51
Row 17: (Linen) x 14, (Light Taupe) x 1, (Linen) x 21, (Light Taupe) x 1, (Linen) x 14
Row 18: (Linen) x 14, (Light Taupe) x 1, (Linen) x 21, (Light Taupe) x 1, (Linen) x 14
Row 19: (Linen) x 11, (Dark Olive) x 7, (Linen) x 15, (Dark Olive) x 7, (Linen) x 11
Row 20: (Linen) x 12, (Dark Olive) x 5, (Linen) x 17, (Dark Olive) x 5, (Linen) x 12
Row 21: (Linen) x 11, (Dark Olive) x 7, (Linen) x 15, (Dark Olive) x 7, (Linen) x 11
Row 22: (Linen) x 12, (Dark Olive) x 5, (Linen) x 17, (Dark Olive) x 5, (Linen) x 12
Row 23: (Linen) x 13, (Dark Olive) x 3, (Linen) x 19, (Dark Olive) x 3, (Linen) x 13
Row 24: (Linen) x 14, (Dark Olive) x 1, (Linen) x 21, (Dark Olive) x 1, (Linen) x 14
Row 25: (Linen) x 51
Row 26: (Linen) x 51
Row 27: (Linen) x 51
Row 28: (Linen) x 5, (Light Taupe) x 1, (Linen) x 19, (Light Taupe) x 1, (Linen) x 19, (Light Taupe) x 1, (Linen) x 5
Row 29: (Linen) x 5, (Light Taupe) x 1, (Linen) x 19, (Light Taupe) x 1, (Linen) x 19, (Light Taupe) x 1, (Linen) x 5
Row 30: (Linen) x 2, (Dark Olive) x 7, (Linen) x 13, (Dark Olive) x 7, (Linen) x 13, (Dark Olive) x 7, (Linen) x 2
Row 31: (Linen) x 3, (Dark Olive) x 5, (Linen) x 15, (Dark Olive) x 5, (Linen) x 15, (Dark Olive) x 5, (Linen) x 3
Row 32: (Linen) x 2, (Dark Olive) x 7, (Linen) x 13, (Dark Olive) x 7, (Linen) x 13, (Dark Olive) x 7, (Linen) x 2
Row 33: (Linen) x 3, (Dark Olive) x 5, (Linen) x 15, (Dark Olive) x 5, (Linen) x 15, (Dark Olive) x 5, (Linen) x 3
Row 34: (Linen) x 4, (Dark Olive) x 3, (Linen) x 17, (Dark Olive) x 3, (Linen) x 17, (Dark Olive) x 3, (Linen) x 4
Row 35: (Linen) x 5, (Dark Olive) x 1, (Linen) x 19, (Dark Olive) x 1, (Linen) x 19, (Dark Olive) x 1, (Linen) x 5
Row 36: (Linen) x 51
Row 37: (Linen) x 51
Row 38: (Linen) x 51
Row 39: (Linen) x 51
Row 40: (Linen) x 51
Row 41: (Linen) x 51
Row 42: (Linen) x 51
Total: (Linen) x 1902, (Dark Olive) x 224, (Light Taupe) x 16
Once your front panel is done, using your base color, chain 51. Tunisian simple stitch for 42 rows.
Put your front and back panel wrong sides together. Using a 5.5mm hook, single crochet the 2 pieces together around the edges. You will place 3 single crochets in each corner. When you get 3 of the 4 sides done, stuff your pillow with polyfill. I had mine crocheted about half way though the last side when I stuffed mine.Pillow measures roughly 12 inches by 12 inches.
I hope you enjoy and as always, if you have any questions please feel free to comment or send us a message!
Happy Yarning!Check out these other patterns from Mountain Pine Crochet.
Tunisian Crochet Christmas Tree Pillow Pattern
Watermelon Granny Square Pattern
Crochet Hadley Headband Pattern
Knit Checkerboard Slipper Pattern -
Watermelon Granny Square Tutorial: FREE
Supplies:
Crochet Hook (I used a size G)
Yarn (I used Worsted Weight)
Darning Needle
ScissorsNotes:
Make sure you are using yarn with a corresponding or suggested hook. It doesn’t matter what size yarn you use!Stitches Used:
Sl St: Slip Stitch
MC: Magic Circle
Sc: Single Crochet
HDC: Half Double Crochet
DC: Double Crochet
BL: Back Loop
Sk: Skip
Ch: ChainLets get started!
With Red:
1.) Double Crochet 12 in Magic Circle. (12)
2.) 2 DC in each stitch around. (24)
Fasten off and attach Green
3.) Single Crochet 2, Increase in next stitch. Repeat around ( 32)
Fasten off and Join with your choice of outside colorStarting Granny Square Stitch
4.) Sc in the same stitch as joining. *Ch 1, sk 2, (BL HDC 3), Ch 2, (BL HDC 3) Ch 1, sk 2, BL SC in next 2*. Repeat 3 times. Join with a sl st to top of single crochet. Ch 1 and turn.
5.) 3 Dc in each chain 1 space from previous round. DC 3, Ch 2, DC 3 in each Ch 2 (corner) space from previous round.Fasten off and weave in your ends!
For the seeds, Take a long piece of black yarn and weave it in and out of the first row of DC and the stitch above it in the next round. I did this 6 times!
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Crochet Oreo: A Free Play Food Pattern
Supplies:
F Hook
Worsted Weight Yarn (White and Black or Brown)
Scissors
Darning Needle
Hot Glue (or any kind of fabric glue)NOTES: This is a very beginner pattern.
You need to know how to Chain, Double Crochet and Single Crochet. (Magic Circle is optional)
You will make 3 pieces but all 3 are made the exact same way.Start:
Make 1 White and 2 Black or Brown. White for the Cream and your dark color for the cookies.
Inside your Magic Circle place 12 DC. (If not using magic circle, chain 3 and place 11 DC in the very first chain.) SlSt to the top of your first DC.
Chain 1 (do not turn) 2 SC in each of your previous DC. SlSt to the top of your first SC.
Cut Yarn, Knot, and weave in your ends.
After making your 3 pieces, hot glue your 3 together with your white in the middle and your right sides of your cookies on the outside!
That’s it!
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The Hadley Headband: A Free Crochet Pattern
Supplies:
Worsted Weight Yarn
H Hook
Scissors
Darning NeedleNote:
This pattern uses the Camel stitch, or Half Double Crochet in the 3rd Loop. You can find a good Tutorial HERE.
The headband is worked as a tube and then sewn together in the end.
This headband is THICK!To Start:
Using your H Hook, Chain 38, attach to your first chain to create a circle being careful not to twist.
Half Double Crochet in each chain. (38)Camel stitch in each stitch around. NOTE: You can slip stitch at the end of each round but I do not care for the line that it creates so I work in continuous rounds, using a stitch marker to mark my first stitch.
You will then work the Camel Stitch until you reach your desired length. Leave a 3 foot tail for sewing.
19 inches for a small
20 inches for medium
21 inches for large
(these are rough estimates and you can make your headband smaller or larger by adding or subtracting rows)You will now take one end of your tube in each hand and twist once. Bring the ends together (while keeping it twisted) and taking your tail length, sew though all 4 layers of your headband. Tie off and weave in your ends when you are done.
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Solid Granny Square Tutorial
#3 in our Granny Square Series! I love that the first 3 are simple patterns! We are introducing a new stitch for the solid square! Lets get started!
Notes:
You will NOT turn your work for this square!
Make sure to use yarn with corresponding hook so it doesn’t matter what kind of yarn you use!Stitches:
MC or Chain
Slip Stitch
Double Crochet
Treble CrochetStart:
Chain 5 and slip stitch to first chain to make a ring, or use magic circle.
Round 1: Chain 4 (counts as treble crochet here and throughout). Into the ring, work 3 dc,
(1 tr, 3 dc) three times. Join with slip stitch to the top of the beginning chain 4 to close the round. [16 stitches – 4 corner tr and 3 dc per side]
Round 2: Ch 4, 2 DC in the same stitch (which is the top of previous round’s chain 4) . * DC in each DC on the first side of the square. Work (2 DC, TR, 2 Dc) in the corner TR. Repeat from * for each side. In the last corner, work 2 DC in the base of the chain 4 to finish the corner. Join with a slip stitch to the top of the beginning chain 4 to close the round
Repeat round 2 until your square reaches the size you need!
To finish, cut yarn at 12 inches and weave in your ends.Happy Yarning!
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Cluster Corner Granny Square Tutorial
#2 in our Granny Square Series! This is a variation of the Basic Granny Square which you can learn by clicking HERE. There are clusters in the corners but single double crochets along the sides! Lets get started!
Supplies:
Crochet Hook (I used a size G)
Yarn (I used Worsted Weight)
Darning Needle
ScissorsNotes:
Make sure you are using yarn with a corresponding or suggested hook. It doesn’t matter what size yarn you use!Make sure to turn your work at the end of each round!
Start by chaining 3 or doing the Magic Circle.
Place 2 double crochets in you first chain, Chain 3, 3 DC, Chain 3, 3 DC, Chain 3, 3 DC, Chain 3. Slip Stitch to the top of your first DC. Chain 1 and turn.
Now to work your corners.
In each chain 3 space from your previous round, place 3 Dc, Chain 3, 3 DC, Chain 1. Slip stitch to the top of your first DC. Chain 1 and turn.
DC in the first DC of the corner cluster, chain 1, (in the chain 3 corner space) 3 DC, Chain 3, 3 DC, Chain 1, 1 DC in the last DC of the 2nd corner cluster. Chain 1, and repeat. I will post a picture of what this is suppose to look like below.
From here on out you will follow this row.
DC in the first DC of the first corner cluster, In chain 3 space place 3 DC, chain 3, 3DC chain 1. Now you will DC in the top of the single DC from the previous round, chain 1 until you reach the corner cluster and repeat.
Happy Yarning!
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Basic Crochet Granny Square Tutorial
All you need to know to make a basic granny square is how to chain, double crochet and how to slip stitch!
Supplies:
Crochet Hook (I used a size G)
Yarn (I used Worsted Weight)
Darning Needle
ScissorsNotes:
Make sure you are using yarn with a corresponding or suggested hook. It doesn’t matter what size yarn you use!
Make sure to turn your work at the end of each round!Now lets get started!
Start by chaining 3. (or you can use the Magic Circle if you prefer)
Put 2 Double Crochets in your first stitch. Chain 3, 3 DC, Chain 3, 3DC, Chain 3, 3 DC, Chain 3. Slip stitch to the top of your 1st DC. Chain 1 and turn.
You are now working corners.
3Dc, chain 3, 3DC, chain 1. Repeat around and slip stitch to the top of your first DC. Chain 1 turn.
You will repeat this next row until your square is as big as you need it.
3 DC in the chain 1 spaces in your round and do a corner cluster (3 DC, Chain 3, 3 DC) in each corner. Slip stitching, chaining 1 and turning at the end of each row. I have attached a photo below for crocheters who are more visual!
Happy Yarning!
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The Workbasket: Textured Square Pan Holder
This pattern is from August 1968. Number 11 – Volume 33.
The intro reads:
This attractive pan holder is easy to make and gives extra protection because heavy rug yarn is used. One 70 yard skein of red American Thread Company’s “Aunt Lydia’s” Heave Rug Yarn, small amount of white for trim and a bone ring are needed. Use aluminum crochet hook size H or any hook needed to work gauge.The American Thread Company went out of business in 1975 so we are unable to get our hands on their Aunt Lydia’s Rug Yarn. If you want to read a little about them you can find a good article HERE. I am also using green and white for mine, not red and white. After making a few of these I have found that you can use 2 strands of cotton yarn, something similar to Sugar and Cream, to achieve the same effect or there is a modification for 1 strand in the pattern now! DO NOT USE ACRYLIC YARN!!!! Acrylic yarn is essentially made of plastic and will melt, causing damage to your pans or your counter tops!
Abbreviations:
ch (chain)
st (stitch)
sl st (slip stitch)
sc (single crochet)
dc (double crochet)
rnd (round)Gauge: 3 sc is equal to 1 inch if using 2 strands, If using 1 strand 6 sc is equal to 1 inch.
Start:
With main color ch 17, *sc in second st from hook, dc in next st,* Repeat around. ch 1 and turn.
Rnd 2: sc in first dc, dc in next sc, repeating across row. ch 1 and turn.
Rnd 3-11: Repeat rnd 2.
At the end of rnd 11, do not turn. place 3 sc in the top of the last dc made, working around entire pan holder, work 15 sc on each side with 3 sc in the corners. Join your contracting color, fasten off main color, do not turn your work.Border:
Ch 3 with contrasting color, sk next sc, sl st in next sc. repeat around and fasten off.Bone Ring:
With your contrasting color, cover bone ring with sc, join with slst to first sc. Cut yarn leaving a length for going to pan holder. Join right to corner of pan holder!MODIFICATION
Follow Pattern above but if you choose to use 1 strand of cotton yarn instead of 2, make these modifications.
1.) Use G hook
2.) Chain 33 Instead of 17
3.) Make 24 rows instead of 11
4.) I evenly crocheted around and ended with roughly 110 sc around the outside. It doesn’t matter how many you end up with as long as its an even number for the edging.
5.) If you do not have a ring (wooden or otherwise) at the end of the pattern after your last ch 3 and slip stitch, chain 15, sc into 2nd chain from hook and each stitch down. Sl St with the very first chain 3 space to make a loop! Cut off and tie in your ends!Done!
If you want more of these little projects please let me know! I also love to see your work so tag me on Instagram, Pinterest, Reddit, and TikTok!Happy Yarning!