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The Workbasket: Textured Square Pan Holder
This pattern is from August 1968. Number 11 – Volume 33.
The intro reads:
This attractive pan holder is easy to make and gives extra protection because heavy rug yarn is used. One 70 yard skein of red American Thread Company’s “Aunt Lydia’s” Heave Rug Yarn, small amount of white for trim and a bone ring are needed. Use aluminum crochet hook size H or any hook needed to work gauge.The American Thread Company went out of business in 1975 so we are unable to get our hands on their Aunt Lydia’s Rug Yarn. If you want to read a little about them you can find a good article HERE. I am also using green and white for mine, not red and white. After making a few of these I have found that you can use 2 strands of cotton yarn, something similar to Sugar and Cream, to achieve the same effect or there is a modification for 1 strand in the pattern now! DO NOT USE ACRYLIC YARN!!!! Acrylic yarn is essentially made of plastic and will melt, causing damage to your pans or your counter tops!
Abbreviations:
ch (chain)
st (stitch)
sl st (slip stitch)
sc (single crochet)
dc (double crochet)
rnd (round)Gauge: 3 sc is equal to 1 inch if using 2 strands, If using 1 strand 6 sc is equal to 1 inch.
Start:
With main color ch 17, *sc in second st from hook, dc in next st,* Repeat around. ch 1 and turn.
Rnd 2: sc in first dc, dc in next sc, repeating across row. ch 1 and turn.
Rnd 3-11: Repeat rnd 2.
At the end of rnd 11, do not turn. place 3 sc in the top of the last dc made, working around entire pan holder, work 15 sc on each side with 3 sc in the corners. Join your contracting color, fasten off main color, do not turn your work.Border:
Ch 3 with contrasting color, sk next sc, sl st in next sc. repeat around and fasten off.Bone Ring:
With your contrasting color, cover bone ring with sc, join with slst to first sc. Cut yarn leaving a length for going to pan holder. Join right to corner of pan holder!MODIFICATION
Follow Pattern above but if you choose to use 1 strand of cotton yarn instead of 2, make these modifications.
1.) Use G hook
2.) Chain 33 Instead of 17
3.) Make 24 rows instead of 11
4.) I evenly crocheted around and ended with roughly 110 sc around the outside. It doesn’t matter how many you end up with as long as its an even number for the edging.
5.) If you do not have a ring (wooden or otherwise) at the end of the pattern after your last ch 3 and slip stitch, chain 15, sc into 2nd chain from hook and each stitch down. Sl St with the very first chain 3 space to make a loop! Cut off and tie in your ends!Done!
If you want more of these little projects please let me know! I also love to see your work so tag me on Instagram, Pinterest, Reddit, and TikTok!Happy Yarning!
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8 FREE St. Paddy’s Day Patterns!
I don’t like a long story before getting to the patterns so HERE YOU GO!
First on the list is the Shamrock Pillow Cover from Briana K Designs. You can find the pattern for free HERE!
Look at this adorable shamrock hat by richtexturescrochet! You can find the pattern HERE on their website for free!
A no-sew shamrock amigurumi from Turtlebunnycreations! You can find it for free on their website HERE!
Crochetawaythecrazy has the free pattern for these bags HERE!
We cant have a St. Paddy’s Day pattern list without a beer/ drink cozy pattern! Find it on Ravelry HERE!
Who doesn’t love little gnomes! This on by JenHayesCreations is free on her website HERE!
YouCanChai created a free St. Patricks Day Treat Bag! Find it HERE!
This little baby top hat is last on our list! Bhookedcrochet has some awesome patterns and you can find them on her website! The pattern is found HERE!
I hope you enjoy these and I love to help out other creators, so if you are a pattern writer and would like to have a pattern of yours featured please feel free to reach out!
Happy Yarning!
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Combination Slipper Pattern: A Free Knitting AND Crochet Pattern!
For this pattern you will need to know how to crochet AND how to knit.
Supplies:
Worsted Weight Yarn
Size 7 DPNS
F Crochet Hook
Scissors
Darning NeedleNotes:
You can create larger or smaller slippers by either going up or down a hook and needle size or by subtracting or adding stitches in increments of 6.You do not need DPNS, you can also use magic loop or 9 inch circulars.
START YOUR HEEL:
Starting with your crochet hook, chain 18.
R1: HDC in 2nd chain from hook and in each stitch across until last chain. In the last chain, HDC 3. Instead of turning your work you will be working down the opposite side of your chain, back toward the beginning. Chain 1 and turn your work. (36 stitches)
R2: Single Crochet in the back loop of each stitch around. Chain 1 and turn. DO NOT JOIN YOUR WORK! (36 stitches
R3-R18: SC in the back loop of each stitch around. Chaining 1 and turning your work after each row.
Using your crochet hook, slip stitch to join in the round. (36 stitches
START YOUR TOE:
Using your DPNS and crochet hook, pick up 36 stitches evenly placed on 3 DPNS. See pictures below to see how I did this.
R19-46: Knit each around.
DECREASE:
Knit 4, Knit 2tog
Knit 3, Knit 2tog
Knit 2, Knit 2tog
Knit 1, Knit 2tog
Knit 2 tog.
Cut your yarn with a 2 foot tail and weave your yarn though the remaining stitches on your needles, Remove needles and pull yarn to close your toe. Knot off and weave in your ends.
HAPPY YARNING!
I love to see your creations so please feel free to tag me on Instagram!
Instagram
TikTok
Pinterest -
Crochet Bobble Bag Pattern
The Bobble Bag Pattern
Propriety of Mountain Pine Crochet. All photos and instructions are propriety of Mountain Pine Crochet.. Please do not alter/resell or share the contents of this pattern in any form.
Materials:
H Hook
Worsted Weight Yarn (I Love This Yarn Peacock)
Scissors
Yarn Needle
For a bobble stitch tutorial check out this blog post here:
www.lookwhatimade.net/crafts/crochet–tutorials/crochet-bobble-stitch/
Start:
Chain 25
Row 1: Sc in 2nd chain from hook. Sc across chain row until you reach your last chain. 3 Sc in your last chain. Now working down the opposite side of your chain, 21 Sc across. Place 2 Sc in your last chain and slst to your first Sc. (48)
Row 2: Chain 1. Sc in same st. Sc 23, 3 Sc in your next stitch (which should be the 2nd stitch in your previous 3 Sc stitch. Sc 24, 3 Sc in your last stitch and slst to your first Sc. (24,3,24,3)
Sl st to your first sc.
Row 3: Sc around and slst to your first Sc. (54)
Row 4: Chain 1. Bobble Stitch in same stitch. Sc in next 2 stitches. Repeat around ending with 2 Sc. Slst to the top of your first Bobble Stitch.
Row 5: Chain 1. Sc around. Slst to first Sc.
Row 6: Chain 1, Sc in same st and next st. *Bobble Stitch in next st. 2 Sc* Repeat around ending with a Bobble Stitch and slst to first Sc.
Row 7: Sc around. Slst to first Sc.
Row 8: Chain 1. Sc in same stitch. *Bobble Stitch in next st. Sc in next 2 st* repeat around ending with 1 Sc. Slst to first Sc.
Row 9: Sc around. Slst to first Sc.
Repeat rows 3-8 for a total of 11 bobble rows
Row 25 and 26: Sc in every stitch around.
Strap:
Sc in next 5 st.
Chain 1 turn
Sc in next 5 st.
For my 2 year old, who is tall, I did 106 rows of 5 Sc. The length of the strap is easily adjustable just add or subtract rows to reach your desired length. I can be short for a hand bag style or long for across the body style.
When you reach your desired length, cut about a foot of yarn and sew your strap on the opposite side of the purse. Weave in your ends!
And your done! Please make sure to watch your littles and do not leave them unattended while wearing a cross body bag.
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Easy Peasy Crochet Slipper Pattern
Supplies:
Size F Crochet Hook
Worsted Weight Yarn
Darning Needle
ScissorsSTART
Chain 18
HDC in 2nd chain from hook and in each stitch across until very last chain. In the last chain you will do 3 HDC. You will now be working up the opposite side of the foundation chain, HDC in each stitch across. You will end with a total of 36 stitches and your first row will look like the picture below.
Chain 1 and turn. Single crochet in the back loop of each stitch around. Chain 1 and turn your work. You will work this row for a total of 18 rows including your first HDC row.
Next you will need to attach each side of your heel to move onto the foot. Take both sides of your heel and insert your hook until the very first stitch of the opposite side, Slip stitch together.
Now you will be working the foot.
HDC in each stitch around. You will end with 36 stitches. Repeat this row for 10 rows.
Now you will be working the Toe.
HDC in the next 4 stitches, HDC 2 Together. Repeat around.
HDC in the next 3 stitches, HDC 2 Together. Repeat around
HDC in the next 2 stitches, HDC 2 Together. Repeat around
HDC in the next stitch, HDC 2 Together. Repeat around.
HDC 2 Together around.
To close your slipper you will cut your working yarn and using a darning needle weave in and out of each stich. Pull tight and knot off. Push your working yarn though the very tip of the slipper and turn it inside out to weave in your ends.
That’s it! Happy Yarning!
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Knit Checkerboard Slipper Pattern
Size 8 needles for toddler and children
Size 10 needles for women and men
Cast on stitches
Toddler: 48
Children: 60
Women: 72
Men: 84
Toddler size: 8 blocks across 5 blocks long plus 1 decrease block
Children Size: 10 Blocks across 7 blocks long plus 1 decrease block
Womens Size: 12 Blocks across, 8 blocks long plus 1 decrease block
Mens Size: 14 Blocks across, 11 blocks long plus 1 decrease block
NOTES:
Blocks are 6 stitches each and 6 rows long.Every row uses the knit stitch, No Purling.
At the end of each row you will anchor your yarn.
The wrong side of your work will have what are called floats. You will pull your yarn across the stitches you just created. This is what creates the bumps in the slipper.
To start:
Cast on your number of stitches leaving a long tail for sewing up the heel at the end. For this example I will be using The women’s size.
Cast on 72 in color 1.
Knit 6 stitches. Attach color 2 and knit 6 stitches.
Pulling the working end of color 1 across the color 2 stitches you just made, Knit 6 stitches. Repeat until the end of the row and turn your work.You will be anchoring your color at the very end to create a curl and finished look at the end. The pictures below show what you are to do.
When working on the wrong side of your work, you will be using the knit stitch. After working your 6 stitches, pull the color you just knit with toward you. You will then cross the 2nd color across those 6 stitches and pull that yarn to the back of your work and knit the next 6 stitches. Repeat across and make sure to anchor your yarn at the end of your row.
When you reach the number of blocks needed for your size you will do 1 decrease block.
R1: K1, K2tog, K1, K2tog (4 stitches now for each block)
R2: K1, K2tog, K1, K1, K2tog, K1 across ( 3 stitches now for each block)
R3: Knit across
R4: Knit across
R5: K1, K2tog across (2 stitches now for each block)
R6: K2tog across (1 stitch now for each block)
This will be what the inside of your slipper should look like in the end. To tie up your toe, cut both colors and take 1 color and thread though your stitches on your needle. Take stitches off your needle and tie a knot with your 2 colors. You will sew up the top part of the foot to close it in. For the women’s size I usually sew up 6 of the 10 blocks. This is preference and you can sew as far down the top as you need. Sew in ends.
I like to turn my slipper inside out to sew up the heel. Take the tail you left from your cast on and fold your slipper heel in half matching the ends. Sew up the heel of your slipper. Weave in your ends.
Check out these other patterns from Mountain Pine Crochet.
Tunisian Crochet Christmas Tree Pillow Pattern
Watermelon Granny Square Pattern
Crochet Hadley Headband Pattern
Crochet and Knitting Patterns