Tutorials
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The Crochet Version of the popular Knit Checkerboard Slippers!
You can find a ad free version of this pattern available for sale and download HERE!
This pattern has been a long time coming. I use to sell it on Ravelry but I have decided that I am going to start releasing my patterns for free here. This pattern is near and dear to my heart and is the crochet version of the classic knit checkerboard slippers.
My grandmother taught me how to knit the slippers when I was younger. I have never come across a crochet version so I made one myself! I have had a ton of people ask for the pattern to be released so I decided to write it up! I have seen in groups on facebook and reddit looking for a pattern similar to the knit version of these slippers and the comments from crocheters stating that they cannot find a crochet pattern. I really hope you enjoy making these as much as I do.
I would say that the pattern is for experienced crocheters. They are made using just a half double crochet but they involve color changes and pulling your yarn over stitches to make the desired bump affect. If you have any questions please feel free to fill out the contact form here or leave a comment below. I see comments first usually!
Supplies:
2 colors worsted weight yarn.
G or 4.0mm Crochet Hook
Yarn Needle
ScissorsNOTES:
– Color changes will happen every 4 stitches. You will finish out your last Hdc with your new color. DO NOT CUT YOUR YARN!
-You will NOT crochet over the tail of each color as you go. You will drop the working color and pick up the new color to finish out your last Hdc stitch.
-When you pick up your new color you will pull it across the 4 stitches you just made. This creates a float which will keep the “bumps” of the pattern intact. Make sure to pull the float tight to create the bump effect of the slipper. ← VERY IMPORTANT! See photos below for reference.
– You will also anchor each new color UNDER the old color. There are pictures provided that helps show this. See below.
– For the very last hdc of your row you will anchor the old color before finishing the stitch. Your last squares will roll over onto itself.Sizes:
Toddler
Chain 33. 6 full blocks. 1 decrease block.
6 ¾ inches from heel to toe.Child
Chain 41. 7 full blocks. 1 decrease block.
7 ½ inches from heel to toe.Ladies
Chain 49. 8 full blocks. 1 decrease block.
8 ¾ inches from heel to toeMen’s
Chain 57. 9 full blocks. 1 decrease block.
10 inches from heel to toe.You can always add blocks if the slippers happen to not be long enough!
To Start:
Chain the amount with the size you wish to make.
Row1: Hdc in the 2nd chain from hook and in the next 2 stitches. Start a hdc with Color 1 (c1) and finish by attaching Color 2 (c2). Drop c1 and work 3 full hdc with c2. Start 4th hdc with c2. Pick up c1, floating the yarn along the wrong side/back side of your work. Pull c2 tight to create a bubble with the fabric and finish 4th hdc. You will pull your floating yarn tight after every color change throughout the pattern.
Row 2: Chain 1 and turn. Following the same pattern as above repeat row 1 with corresponding colors. Make sure you are anchoring your old color down.
Row 3: Chain 1 and turn. Repeat row 2.
Row 4: You will be switching the order of your colors on this row. So where you used c1 you will now use c2. Example:
1111222211112222
1111222211112222
1111222211112222
2222111122221111
2222111122221111
2222111122221111
Each block is 4 half double crochets for 3 rows.Row 5- End: You will repeat the pattern above switching colors after 3 rows until you reach the amount of blocks indicated above for the size you are making.
Again: Make sure you are pulling your floating yarn tight. If you leave it loose and your slipper doesn’t have the bow affect the sizing will be off. If you have any questions regarding how this is done please feel free to get a hold of me! You can email me at contact@mountainpinecrochet for a quick response.
Decrease Block:
Rd 1: Hdc in the first 2 stitches of each block. Hdc2tog and finish with your new color for your color change just as you did above. Repeat across ending with a Hdc2tog. Chain 1 and Turn.
Rd 2: Hdc in the first stitch of each block. Hdc2tog and finish with your new color for your color change. Chain 1 and Turn.
Rd 3: Hdc2tog ending each stitch with your color change. Chain 1 and Turn.
Changing Colors and Anchoring Your New Color:
Your new color will ALWAYS go under your new color. 
Finish your last HDC with the new color by pulling your new color though all 3 loops on your hook! NOTE: To make the bumps happen on the outside of the slipper you will pull the new color tight.
You will be carrying your new color over your 4 stitches. The inside of your slipper will look like this.
The lines that you see are the floats which hold your bump in place. This is where you pulled your
yarn over the set of HDC you made.
Finishing off:
Cut a long tail with either color and cut the other end long enough to weave in. Knot off both. With your long tail you will weave the yarn though each of your last stitches and pull closed. This will form the toe of your slipper. When you pull closed you will be at the top of the slipper. Hold the 2 sides of the slipper together and sew up the top about 1/3rd of the way. Knot off and weave in your end.
Now to the back of the slipper. Take the long tail from the beginning and hold the ends of your slipper together and sew up the sides. This will form the heal. Knot off and weave in all of your ends.
All finished!
I love seeing all of your creations so please share on the following social media!
- Pinterest: @mountainpinecrochet
- TikTok: @mountainpinecrochet
- Website: www.mountainpinecrochet.com
All photos and pattern itself are copyright protected and property of Mountain Pine Crochet.
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Learn With Me: Yarn Types and Tools used in Crochet.
Welcome! I am so excited to have you here! If you are like me, you are here to do research before jumping into a new hobby. Crochet is the art of using different loops and knots to create a fabric. I am here to talk to you about the different types of yarn and the tools you will need to get started, but first lets talk about yarn.
The weight of yarn is not determined by how heavy the yarn is but by how thick or thin the yarn is. Here is a look at what the icons look like on a skein of yarn and what different types of yarns can be used for. If you click the icon next to the description below you will be taken to an example of each!
0 Weight, or Lace weight yarn is the thinnest yarn on the market. This type of yarn is usually used with a larger hook or needle and is used to make a lace effect for shawls or wraps! It makes for a very delicate and sophisticated look.
Super Fine weight yarn is also known as fingering weight yarn. It is used most commonly in knitting socks, baby garments and adult garments.
Weight 2 yarn is also known as sport weight or baby weight yarn. This type of yarn has a great drape when worked up and can be used to make socks also with a slightly thicker fabric than fingering weight yarn.
This yarn is also known as DK weight yarn. It works up much faster than the previously mention yarn and is very popular for sweaters and shawls.
Worsted Weight yarn is the most commonly used yarn in knit and crochet. It works up quickly and is so versitile that you can find patterns from garments, swimsuits (cotton), afghans (blankets) amigurumi and many more.
This yarn is perfect for blankets and chunky sweaters. Also known as chunky yarn.
Lately this kind of yarn has been used to make large plushies. It is very thick and it can also be used to make large blankets.
Now onto your tools!
Lets talk about hooks first. There are a ton of different materials that hooks can be made out of. Some examples are aluminum, wood, clay, plastic and acrylic. There are also 2 different kinds of hooks, inline and tapered.
Tapered Hooks are my favorite. I have found that Inline hooks split my yarn. Boye Hooks are Tapered. Click the picture to be taken to some examples of Tapered Hooks. 
Inline Hooks were my Grandma’s go-to. She held her yarn differently than I do and these worked well for her. Susan Bates makes Inline Hooks. Click the picture to be taken to some examples of inline hooks. There are also hooks called Tunisian Crochet hooks or afghan hook, which is used for a totally different kind of crochet which I will address in a separate post. Here is a picture of what those look like.
Tunisian hooks may also have a long cord attached. Click the picture for the hooks that I own. After your hook there are a few other small things that you may need.
Scissors. You can use your kitchen scissors but I have found that having a small pair to take with me in my crochet bag is the best way to go. Click the picture and you will be taken to my favorite pair that I always carry in my bag!
Darning Needles or Yarn Needles will be needed to sew in your ends! I never crochet over my ends like some people might suggest you do. They always come loose and make my project look messy. Darning Needles are your friends!
The good thing about a stitch marker is that you can really use a variety of things. My most commonly used stitch marker is a bobby pin. They aren’t expensive and if you loose it (like I do all the time), you usually have 100 more laying around your house! Another good option is a simple paperclip, but if you want to get some actual stitch markers, these are my go to! Just make sure you are using ones that have a way to be removed. If they are a solid circle ring those are used for knitting.
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Learn With Me: The Half Double Crochet
Welcome back to stitch #2 in our series on how to crochet for beginners! Our first lesson was on the Single Crochet which you can find HERE.
The Half Double Crochet is another beginner stitch. It is very easy and creates a more loose fabric than the single crochet. There are pictures below and a video at the end that you can watch if you are more of a visual learner! Lets get started!
The Half Double Crochet starts with a Yarn Over.
Yarn over, Insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull though stitch. You will have 3 loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull though all 3 loops! That’s how you complete your Half Double Crochet!
Yarn Over.
Insert into your stitch.
Yarn over and pull though stitch. 3 loops on hook.
Yarn over.
Pull though all 3 loops!
Done!
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Learn With Me: Chaining
Once you have you yarn and hook picked out, it is time to learn how to chain! This is the first lesson in our Learn With Me Series! I have attached a video along with some pictures to help with learning! I know that YouTube can be very overwhelming with long explanations so the video I have attached jumps right into how to chain!
Start by making a slip knot and inserting your hook.
Yarn over and pull though loop.
Continue yarning over and pulling though loop until you have the number of chains you need!
Happy Yarning!
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Solid Granny Square Tutorial
#3 in our Granny Square Series! I love that the first 3 are simple patterns! We are introducing a new stitch for the solid square! Lets get started!
Notes:
You will NOT turn your work for this square!
Make sure to use yarn with corresponding hook so it doesn’t matter what kind of yarn you use!Stitches:
MC or Chain
Slip Stitch
Double Crochet
Treble CrochetStart:
Chain 5 and slip stitch to first chain to make a ring, or use magic circle.
Round 1: Chain 4 (counts as treble crochet here and throughout). Into the ring, work 3 dc,
(1 tr, 3 dc) three times. Join with slip stitch to the top of the beginning chain 4 to close the round. [16 stitches – 4 corner tr and 3 dc per side]
Round 2: Ch 4, 2 DC in the same stitch (which is the top of previous round’s chain 4) . * DC in each DC on the first side of the square. Work (2 DC, TR, 2 Dc) in the corner TR. Repeat from * for each side. In the last corner, work 2 DC in the base of the chain 4 to finish the corner. Join with a slip stitch to the top of the beginning chain 4 to close the round
Repeat round 2 until your square reaches the size you need!
To finish, cut yarn at 12 inches and weave in your ends.Happy Yarning!
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Basic Crochet Granny Square Tutorial
All you need to know to make a basic granny square is how to chain, double crochet and how to slip stitch!
Supplies:
Crochet Hook (I used a size G)
Yarn (I used Worsted Weight)
Darning Needle
ScissorsNotes:
Make sure you are using yarn with a corresponding or suggested hook. It doesn’t matter what size yarn you use!
Make sure to turn your work at the end of each round!Now lets get started!
Start by chaining 3. (or you can use the Magic Circle if you prefer)
Put 2 Double Crochets in your first stitch. Chain 3, 3 DC, Chain 3, 3DC, Chain 3, 3 DC, Chain 3. Slip stitch to the top of your 1st DC. Chain 1 and turn.
You are now working corners.
3Dc, chain 3, 3DC, chain 1. Repeat around and slip stitch to the top of your first DC. Chain 1 turn.
You will repeat this next row until your square is as big as you need it.
3 DC in the chain 1 spaces in your round and do a corner cluster (3 DC, Chain 3, 3 DC) in each corner. Slip stitching, chaining 1 and turning at the end of each row. I have attached a photo below for crocheters who are more visual!
Happy Yarning!
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The Workbasket: Textured Square Pan Holder
This pattern is from August 1968. Number 11 – Volume 33.
The intro reads:
This attractive pan holder is easy to make and gives extra protection because heavy rug yarn is used. One 70 yard skein of red American Thread Company’s “Aunt Lydia’s” Heave Rug Yarn, small amount of white for trim and a bone ring are needed. Use aluminum crochet hook size H or any hook needed to work gauge.The American Thread Company went out of business in 1975 so we are unable to get our hands on their Aunt Lydia’s Rug Yarn. If you want to read a little about them you can find a good article HERE. I am also using green and white for mine, not red and white. After making a few of these I have found that you can use 2 strands of cotton yarn, something similar to Sugar and Cream, to achieve the same effect or there is a modification for 1 strand in the pattern now! DO NOT USE ACRYLIC YARN!!!! Acrylic yarn is essentially made of plastic and will melt, causing damage to your pans or your counter tops!
Abbreviations:
ch (chain)
st (stitch)
sl st (slip stitch)
sc (single crochet)
dc (double crochet)
rnd (round)Gauge: 3 sc is equal to 1 inch if using 2 strands, If using 1 strand 6 sc is equal to 1 inch.
Start:
With main color ch 17, *sc in second st from hook, dc in next st,* Repeat around. ch 1 and turn.
Rnd 2: sc in first dc, dc in next sc, repeating across row. ch 1 and turn.
Rnd 3-11: Repeat rnd 2.
At the end of rnd 11, do not turn. place 3 sc in the top of the last dc made, working around entire pan holder, work 15 sc on each side with 3 sc in the corners. Join your contracting color, fasten off main color, do not turn your work.Border:
Ch 3 with contrasting color, sk next sc, sl st in next sc. repeat around and fasten off.Bone Ring:
With your contrasting color, cover bone ring with sc, join with slst to first sc. Cut yarn leaving a length for going to pan holder. Join right to corner of pan holder!MODIFICATION
Follow Pattern above but if you choose to use 1 strand of cotton yarn instead of 2, make these modifications.
1.) Use G hook
2.) Chain 33 Instead of 17
3.) Make 24 rows instead of 11
4.) I evenly crocheted around and ended with roughly 110 sc around the outside. It doesn’t matter how many you end up with as long as its an even number for the edging.
5.) If you do not have a ring (wooden or otherwise) at the end of the pattern after your last ch 3 and slip stitch, chain 15, sc into 2nd chain from hook and each stitch down. Sl St with the very first chain 3 space to make a loop! Cut off and tie in your ends!Done!
If you want more of these little projects please let me know! I also love to see your work so tag me on Instagram, Pinterest, Reddit, and TikTok!Happy Yarning!
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Easy Peasy Crochet Slipper Pattern
Supplies:
Size F Crochet Hook
Worsted Weight Yarn
Darning Needle
ScissorsSTART
Chain 18
HDC in 2nd chain from hook and in each stitch across until very last chain. In the last chain you will do 3 HDC. You will now be working up the opposite side of the foundation chain, HDC in each stitch across. You will end with a total of 36 stitches and your first row will look like the picture below.
Chain 1 and turn. Single crochet in the back loop of each stitch around. Chain 1 and turn your work. You will work this row for a total of 18 rows including your first HDC row.
Next you will need to attach each side of your heel to move onto the foot. Take both sides of your heel and insert your hook until the very first stitch of the opposite side, Slip stitch together.
Now you will be working the foot.
HDC in each stitch around. You will end with 36 stitches. Repeat this row for 10 rows.
Now you will be working the Toe.
HDC in the next 4 stitches, HDC 2 Together. Repeat around.
HDC in the next 3 stitches, HDC 2 Together. Repeat around
HDC in the next 2 stitches, HDC 2 Together. Repeat around
HDC in the next stitch, HDC 2 Together. Repeat around.
HDC 2 Together around.
To close your slipper you will cut your working yarn and using a darning needle weave in and out of each stich. Pull tight and knot off. Push your working yarn though the very tip of the slipper and turn it inside out to weave in your ends.
That’s it! Happy Yarning!